Theodore Roosevelt National Park South Unit

Visiting the South Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park from the North Unit also involves a bit of time travel. The Units are an hour apart. The North Unit operates on Mountain Time. The South Unit operates on Central Time. I arrived the same time I left. Whoa. Mind blown!

Behind the Visitor’s Center is Theodore Roosevelt’s Maltese Cabin, a small structure he called home in his early days in North Dakota.

His original writing desk and trunk (complete with his initials) remain.

After the tour of the cabin, it was time to check out the 36 mile scenic drive. The landscape is more diverse in the South Unit, but it’s also much more crowded as it’s not as far off the beaten path as the North Unit.

The Scenic Drive starts by passing through a prairie dog town.

These industrious little creatures are so rapidly expanding, that they’re even burrowing up through the road. But aside from the prairie dogs, I found it harder to see wildlife in the larger expanse of the South Unit when I first arrived.

However, I was up with the sun the next day. I saw a coyote and heard another one while I was hiking.

I drove to Buck Hill, the highest point in the park. I hiked to the top of the hill and thought, “It’s really quiet here.” Then an elk bugled. Sadly, I never saw any elk. But they’re fun to hear. I saw a few deer on Buck Hill, but no bucks, oddly.

I saw lots of bison throughout the day. 

A small heard created a large traffic jam at the Painted Canyon Visitor Center that afternoon.

My favorite place in the South Unit is Wind Canyon. The effects of erosion and wind are obvious in this small canyon. A short trail leads out to the Missouri River. Even though I was camping along the Missouri River in Cottonwood Campground, the view from here was much more majestic.

View from my campsite

Horseshoe Bend at the edge of Wind Canyon

On my final night in the south unit I drove the Scenic Drive again right before sunset. I pulled over when I saw this buck.

A van pulled off along with me. This van and I leapfrogged our way around the Scenic Drive. I was headed to Wind Canyon to watch and photograph the sunset. I pulled in the Wind Canyon parking lot, but stayed in my seat as I switched lenses and gathered my stuff (GoPro, headlamp, baseball cap, etc). I noticed that the van pulled up beside be, but I was focused on prepping for my hike. When I looked up, the driver asked me about what all I saw when I took the above photo. Much to everyone’s surprise, I knew the people in the van!

I met Vern and Judy Essenberg when I was touring with Silver Ring Thing eight years ago. Vern and Judy live in Michigan, were traveling to Montana in August, and stopped by Theodore Roosevelt National Park for the night. Had Vern not stopped to ask a question, we would have completely missed each other! It was great to have a quick roadside catch up on life. Unfortunately for them, I’d been camping in campgrounds without showers for a few days…

The conversation was great and the sunset that night did not disappoint. I was up early the next morning and was out exploring again. Unfortunately, there was too much fog to get a good sunrise. I drove back to the top of Buck Hill hoping to see or hear some elk, but it was so socked in I didn’t even attempt to hike.

However, as I was completing my last trip around the Scenic Drive I saw a heard of wild horses and five pronghorn.

I’d been scouring fields for the past several days and couldn’t be happier to finally find some pronghorn. I think I spent nearly an hour watching these beautiful creatures.

Time to head further south…on to SouthDakota!

Go. Live.

Theodore Roosevelt National Park North Unit

On February 12, 1884 a 25 year old Theodore Roosevelt became a father. Two days later, his wife died. Hours later, his mother died. Devastated, Teddy soon set off for North Dakota. One of his main goals was to hunt bison, but he became intrigued with the cattle industry and soon bought a ranch and hired his hunting guides to run it.

My desire to go to North Dakota was much different. I certainly hadn’t suffered as much tragedy as Roosevelt, but I too needed to change my routine. I wanted a trip that was completely out of the ordinary, that would let me be outside as much as possible, would provide many opportunities to explore, and contained lots of space to think. Oh, and visit my 49th state and as many National Parks I could fit into a week. And I, like Roosevelt, found comfort in living what he called, "The Strenuous Life."

Theodore Roosevelt National Park is divided into three units in western North Dakota: North Unit, South Unit, and Elkhorn Ranch. Elkhorn Ranch is the site of Roosevelt’s cattle ranch. Only some foundation stones remain and this area as been kept as undeveloped as possible to allow it to remain how Roosevelt would have experienced it. Unfortunately that means there is no easy way to get there. The only road in is a rutted, dirt road. I skipped it as I had lots to explore in the other two units.

The North Unit is in the middle of oil country. I drove for miles through field after field and suddenly there was a pumpjack. Or a fenced in area with a much more elaborate oil drilling facility. And small housing/trailer developments are springing up throughout the region. But in the middle of this bustling economy is an oasis of over 24,000 acres.

I passed through the entrance gate, showed my annual pass, and on my left was a large herd of bison. Sadly, I was paranoid about not getting a campsite in the park’s campground (they don’t take reservations), so I sped past. It was early afternoon and I found the campground less than 25% full. I got a great, level, pull through spot with a path that lead down to the Missouri River. I filled out the registration envelope and learned a valuable lesson: Have exact change when registering for a campsite on site. Enjoy the donation Park Service, you’re worth it.

With my accommodations for the night secure, I set off on the 14 mile scenic drive. Interesting landscapes and geological formations were all around me. As I neared the end of the drive, I rounded a bend and found another group of bison. It was a hot day and they were resting and trying to stay cool.

The scenic drove ends at the Oxbow Scenic Overlook. With so many trees along the river, the oxbow is hard to see, but it’s there.

It was just past this point where Teddy Roosevelt caught two thieves who stole his riverboat. He marched them across 60 miles to Dickinson where they stood trial. Go Teddy!

On a sunset walk, I passed several cannonball concretions. These round boulders formed inside of other, softer rocks. The softer, outer shell eroded away and these concretions mark their spot to this day.

The following morning, I took another lap on the scenic drive and decided to hike the Caprock Coulee trail. I saw pictures of the caprocks in National Geographic’s Guide to the National Parks and knew I had to see these mushroom shaped formations. I didn’t care that it would be a four mile walk in the wilderness, I wanted to see them. So off I went.

Several miles and interesting formations later, I reached the place of the caprocks. But, they weren’t there. They’ve apparently all fallen down. Thankfully, the scenery of the trail was so beautiful that I wasn’t too mad. But disappointed nonetheless.

The trail eventually winds up the hill, crosses the scenic drive and past the Riverbend Overlook. This was one of my favorite spots in the park, and while pausing here along my hike I saw a bison crossing the river far below. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to change lenses in time to get the photo I wanted, but it was a magical moment. You’ll just have to take my word for it.

I continued along the trail and found some petrified wood.

After my hike, I was back in the Jeep and driving to the South Unit.

But not before a stop to visit with the bison herd inside the entrance gate.

Go. Live.

The Rivers of North Dakota

When you think “North Dakota,” what comes to mind? For me it was space. A flat expanse covered by prairie grass, corn, and as of recently, oil fields. Something I didn’t think of was rivers. But North Dakota has them. In fact they have two National Park Sites along rivers.

I started my North and South Dakota adventure in Minneapolis, Minnesota. I was staying with some childhood friends about an hour northwest of the city and when I climbed into my Jeep after church on Sunday, I entered “Knife River Indian Villages” into my GPS. A couple miles and few quick turns later, I was on Interstate 90 and my GPS bellowed, “Continue 398 Miles.” I was about to drive over halfway across the state of North Dakota on the same road.

Turns out I was right about a few things. North Dakota is flat. And spacious. It also has many fields of sunflowers. I’m not talking about small yellow wildflowers people often call sunflowers nor am I saying there are a few large sunflowers planted throughout the state. No. Entire fields full of sunflowers as tall as I am.

After seven hours of sunflowers, corn, and zero turns I arrived to Knife River Indian Villages. The Visitor Center closed about an hour before I arrived. Don’t worry, I knew that would most likely be the case. Thankfully, the grounds stay open until dark, so I was able to walk around.

Immediately behind the Visitor Center is a reconstructed earthlodge.  These dwellings are what made up the Hidatsa Villages for centuries.

All that is left of them today are visible mounds where the homes collapsed and nature slowly took over.

A path skirts along the edge of the village and wanders down to the confluence of the Knife and Missouri Rivers. Meriwether Lewis and William Clark sailed the Missouri on their expedition. It took them 4 months to travel from St. Louis to this spot in 1804. I had a connection in St. Louis and it took me about a day to reach these villages. I love to travel, but I’m glad I get to do it now in an age of airplanes and automobiles instead of in the days of small boats and covered wagons.

Lewis and Clark arrived in this village not knowing what was around the next bend. They decided it would be a good idea to take someone along with them who knew this section of the country so they brought along a French-Canadian fur trader Toussaint Charbonneau as an interpreter and his wife, Sacagawea.

The next day, I had to drive into Montana to visit my second park in North Dakota. You read that right. I was in North Dakota. I wanted to visit a park in North Dakota. I had to go to Montana to do it.

Fort Union Trading Post is located near the confluence of the Yellowstone and Missouri Rivers. I found Fort Union Trading Post just off a little country road that turned to dirt a yard or so from the turn off into the parking lot. I hadn’t even realized I had entered Montana until I saw a sign in the parking lot that said “Entering North Dakota.” I glanced in my rearview mirror and saw a similar sign facing the other way that said, “Entering Montana.” In this part of the country, this was more than just a state line it was also a timezone line. I had some fun with that:

Fort Union was a trading post established by John Jacob Astor as part of his American Fur Company to do business with the Northern Plains Tribes. On average, they sold more than $100,000 of merchandise and collected 25,000 bison furs each year. One rifle cost 9 bison robes.

Now that I’d explored a couple of the river regions of the state, it was time to follow the Missouri River south and explore the most unique geological features of the state, the Badlands of Theodore Roosevelt National Park.

Stay Tuned…

What comes to mind when you picture North Dakota? What is your favorite river to visit?

Go. Live.

All By Myself

I made it back! A week ago I returned from 10 days in North and South Dakota. It was a solo trip and could not have gone any better! I had an amazing time and I can't wait to share all of the places I discovered with you.

As incredible as the trip was, I was scared going into it. I talk a good game, but being alone and in new situations is still scary for me. Here's a little note I wrote on the plane:

__________________________________________

I like traveling alone.

I’ve told myself that for the past 8 years. When I started traveling, I soon realized that everyone has different objectives. If there was something I wanted to see or do, I just needed to go see it or do it. Even if no one came with me. Even if I was alone.

I used to explore new cities on my own before meeting up with the rest of the group I was traveling with or getting back on the ship. In the past couple years I’ve kicked it up a notch and I’ve started taking entire trips on my own. And you know what? It’s pretty awesome.

When you travel by yourself you get to be 100% selfish. That sounds horrible, doesn’t it? Selfishness has a connotation with it, but if you’re a decent and respectful human being you are probably constantly looking out for and thinking of others. Everyone needs some downtime to look after themselves. During solo travel you have no one else’s schedule to mind or needs to meet. If you want to blow off plans you had, do it! If you want to eat at the trendiest place in town, do it! If you want to spend the day shopping, sleeping, watching movies, hiking, or people watching, DO IT!

One of my favorite things about solo travel is how strong it forces me to be. There is no one else on whom to rely or fall back. If there’s a problem, I solve it. Sure it’s scary. Sure I end up completely overwhelmed and crying in my rental car on occasion. But then I pull myself together and move forward. And suddenly I’m stronger than I’ve ever been because I have no other choice. And it’s funny how all of the problems of my regular life look much smaller now that I’ve been hiking in Alaska alone.

So today I’m off on another solo trek. It’s already been overwhelming. I nearly cried this morning. It took a lot of extra time and walking to find my bus stop when I went the wrong way. I’m worried there will be complications with my rental car when I pick it up tonight. Lots of things could go wrong, but so many things are already going right. I’m visiting a state I’ve never been to, seeing 6 National Parks, catching up with old friends, challenging myself, and shaking up my routine. I’m scared, but I’m ready. And most of all, I’m excited for all I’ll experience this week!

I no longer have to tell myself, “I like solo travel.” Because I honestly do.

Where have you gone alone? What is your dream solo getaway?

Go. Live.

ps. Not alone travel is great too :) I’m not saying solo travel is the only way to go, but I think it’s good to not let the fear of being alone ever stop you from doing something you want to do.

I Accidentally Visited A Pet Cemetery

The past few posts have been about my trip to Colonial National Park. While I enjoyed Jamestowne, Yorktown, Colonial Williamsburg, and saving money throughout the weekend I made the most surprising discovery at Fort Monroe National Monument.

Fort Monroe was once known as the Gibraltar of the Chesapeake and is the largest stone fort in America. It is now referred to as a "Park in Progress" after being named a National Monument in 2011. A few weeks a go it became my 82nd National Park.

During the Civil War, Fort Monroe became known as Freedom's Fortress. Any runaway slave that made it to the fort was considered free. This was a bit controversial because under the Fugitive Slave Act, they should have been returned to their masters. But Major General Benjamin Butler argued that since Virginia (where the runaway slaves were from) had succeeded from the Union, they were no longer part of the United States so he didn't need to return the slaves. Instead, he referred to them as "contrabands of war." Unfortunately, Butler soon put the men to work and didn't pay them, but a few months later the Secretary of the Navy, Gideon Welles, ordered that the men be paid.

The path to freedom at Fort Monroe is an ironic one. Long before the existing fort was built, a number of English forts stood in its place. In 1619 a Dutch slave ship brought the first slaves to colonies and established this horrendous practice in America.

Another twist of irony came as construction was being completed on the current Fort Monroe. The project was overseen by a young engineer named Robert E. Lee who, of course, would go on to become a General in the Army of Northern Virginia - a member of the Confederate States. At the surrender of the Confederacy, then president Jefferson Davis was imprisoned at Fort Monroe. Perhaps arriving at the very same spot the first slaves did centuries earlier and being held in a structure designed or built by his most notable general.

The fort was used during World War 2 as a line of U boat defense and was only decommissioned in September 2011.

All of these twists and turns in the history of Fort Monroe make it an exciting place to explore. 

To get into the fort I had to drive across a moat. A real moat! How many of you have driven across a moat? That experience alone was enough to make the trip worth it.

There were very little signs of National Park Service involvement. Very little signs in general. The entire place looked deserted. Inside the walls of the fort are a few homes and we saw a couple people, but we were the only visitors. We drove the entire way around the inside not knowing where to go, but then we parked outside the Casemate Museum. We were there in the evening so the museum wasn't open, but we were able to pick up a few brochures from the box outside the entrance.

So what do you do inside a deserted fort? You explore!

First, we walked through the Postern Gate. Located around the corner from the museum, this is a footbridge over the moat. Then we climbed the rampart to the terreplein. Now that we were on top of the fort we were met with many foundations and mounts were there were once guns. Every few feet there was another.

When we turned around to face the inside of the fort, my dad noticed a small marker on the ground. A tiny tombstone for Snoopy. I've done a bit of research on this now, and at one point this was an active pet cemetery used by members of the military. In fact some of the pets buried here were even service dogs. A place of honor for the best friends of those who fought for our country.

As we walked along we peered over the wall and saw Old Point Comfort Lighthouse and across the water lies the City of Norfolk and Fort Wool.

As a National Park, Fort Monroe still has a ways to go. Informational signage throughout the park is greatly needed. But the lack of publicity at the moment makes now the perfect time to go. It isn't crowded, very few areas are off limits, and you're free to explore however you desire.

What is the strangest or most surprising discovery you've made in a National Park?

Go. Live.

FYI - I'm taking off on vacation in a few days and I'm not quite sure when I can post again. In the mean time, follow me on Twitter and Instagram. I'm planning to visit 6 National Parks on this trip, so it will be a big week for #100by100.

A Penny Saved...

If you're a single, young professional with travel as your main hobby, economical travel better be a hobby too.  Thankfully for me it is! My top two hobbies are 1. Travel and 2. Saving Money

Last week I wrote about my trip to Colonial Williamsburg. Here's a few things I did to save a little cash.

Hotel
My go to for online hotel bookings is Booking.com. I used this site to book my awesome log cabin outside of Gatlinburg in March. I loved the cabin (and the unbelievable price) so much that I automatically love the site. I didn't know it until I achieved it, but if you book three times with Booking.com you automatically become a genius. More than just a nice compliment, genius status will get you additional discounts and bonuses at select properties.

Unfortunately, all of the hotels around Williamsburg were more expensive than what I wanted to pay so I decided to try the Name Your Own Price tool over at Priceline. I've only made one rental car and one hotel reservation with this tool so I'm definitely still a novice, but here are the basics. You fill out an online form with all of your information (including credit card) and then submit a bid. If any companies or properties approve your bid, your card is automatically charged, and the details are sent to you. I've found it to be a great way to save some money when prices seem unusually high. I saved over 20% per room by giving this a try. There are some drawbacks though:
1. I got to choose which star level and which area of town I wanted my hotel to be in, but I had no say over which property I got. Since it charged my card immediately, there was no going back if I didn't like the looks of it.
2. No hotel rewards. I ended up in a chain that I stay with frequently. I tried to give them my rewards number as I was checking in, but since I had paid through Priceline I didn't earn any loyalty points.

Attraction Tickets
Amusement parks are expensive! I don't understand how families can go to Disney. I can't even justify taking myself there. Even smaller parks are expensive. A single day ticket to Colonial Williamsburg is over $40. I researched the special offers on their website and found that this summer they have partnered with Food Lion and members of Food Lion's MVP club get $10 off each ticket. I wasn't a member, but I am now! MVP membership is free - just fill at a simple form in the store and you'll get your card on the spot. Going to Colonial Williamsburg but don't have a Food Lion in your area? There's a store 4 minutes from the park! Make that your first stop and save $10 per ticket.

As I was researching ticket deals I saw a note about educator and museum worker discounts. There wasn't much info online, but it said to visit the ticket office for more info. I work for an organization that includes a museum so I took my ID with me to the ticket office and got a one day pass FREE. I'm not sure if teachers and other museum workers are also free (it might vary based on which organization you work for), but it doesn't hurt to ask. Take your ID or a business card for proof.

Notice of these deals was on the attraction's website, I just had to look!

Also, check with your employer. Some companies have attraction discounts or memberships with organizations who offer attraction discounts. A previous employer of mine was a member of TicketsAtWork. This great site offers discounts on hotels, attractions, and even movie tickets. Check them out!

National Parks
On the opposite end of the spectrum from Amusement Parks are National Parks - I'm stunned by how affordable they are. When I started on my quest to see 100 National Parks before the Park Service turns 100 in 2016, I was originally concerned about all of the entrance fees, but was pleasantly surprised by how few charge fees and how affordable those that do are. Plus, paying the fee typically grants you access to the park for 7 days. If you plan on visiting a lot of parks, consider getting the America the Beautiful Annual Pass. At $80 this pass covers entrance to parks for 4 adults as well as any vehicle fees. A Military Pass is free for members of the military and their dependents. A Senior Pass is $10 and is a Lifetime Pass for anyone 62 and older (is it weird that the next birthday I'm excited about is 32 years away?).

As I said in the last post, we visited Colonial Park (which includes Jamestowne and Yorktown) on the day before visiting Colonial Williamsburg. Admission to the park is $14 per person. Jamestowne is co-run with Preservation Virginia so my Annual Pass didn't cover everything, but it got the price down to $5 per person.

Do Your Homework
I was able to research and plan this trip over the course of a couple evenings. By doing a little research I saved at least:
$40 on Hotels
$70 on Attraction Admission
$36 on National Parks
That's nearly $150 in savings. That will pay for my next hotel stay.

As I like to say, "A penny saved is one penny closer to another trip."

What are your favorite money saving travel tips? Any favorite deal sites or apps you use?